Finding Hilda's ‘Where is it?" of recipes

Our interest in historical buildings rests not only in the architecture but also with the lifestyle that shaped these buildings. My passion for gardening and preparing food from the garden is always informed by original methods and recipes. If one understands the classic recipe and the role of different ingredients, only then can one improvise and experiment.

I believe that the classic recipe and the dish it produces is the original and will always own the original name.  Any deviation from the recipe, though inspired by the original, is a new dish and should therefore go by a new name.  Surely there can only be one traditional milk-tart. If you turn it into a chocolate variation of the traditional recipe, it cannot be a traditional milk-tart but it becomes a chocolate tart.

In my search for the true origins of Cape and South African food in general, I have become an avid collector of Africana cookbooks. When 'Hilda’s “Where is It?” of recipes', published in 1891 was recently offered for sale by a bookshop that specialises in Africana, I did not have to think twice before rushing out to buy it.

The book is very interesting as by the introduction it “contains many old Cape, Indian and Malay dishes and preserves”. To my knowledge it is the first South African cookbook to include traditional recipes from different racial groups at the Cape.

The recipes are arranged alphabetically and many have subtitles like "a Cape dish”, “the old Cape way”, "Dutch recipe” and "a Malay dish” explaining the origin of the recipes.

Apart from recipes there is also handy information and directions for polishing furniture, cleaning silk, etc., and a collection of home remedies in case of sickness.

With the acquisition of this book I can complete my set of books by Hildagonda Duckitt, having some time ago acquired ‘Hilda’s diary of a Cape housekeeper’ first published in 1902. In this diary she describes the daily and monthly routines in a Cape household. It includes cooking recipes, notes on gardening, poultry-keeping and other activities on a Cape farm.

Hildagonda Duckitt (1839 -1905) Source: Quadrilles and Konfyt by M Kuttel - 1954

It is interesting that these books were written shortly before and during the South African War. In the introduction, which is dated October 1890, the author says, "It was at the suggestion of some friends in England... that I have collected some homely and old-fashioned recipes from relations and friends and from practical housewives”. The introduction provides a glimpse into the relationship of the author with “friends in England”. The fact that Capetonians had not experienced any hostilities first-hand might have contributed to the cordial relations.

The dedication in Diary of a Cape housekeeper

Furthermore, ‘Hilda’s diary of a Cape housekeeper’ was by permission, dedicated to the Princess of Wales. This would have been Princess Mary who was married to Prince George V, future monarchs and Emperor and Empress of the British Empire. It would have been quite a statement of loyalty to dedicate your book to a British Royal in the middle of the South African war.

Hildagonda Duckitt was renowned for her contribution to South African cookery as well as her gardening skills. She had a keen interest in the indigenous flora of South Africa. She sent some Nemesia strumosa seeds to Suttons in England in 1890. Suttons started marketing the seeds in a range of colours in 1893. Hildagonda also named her house in Wynberg (near Cape Town), Nemesia Cottage. This must be a clear indication of how much she loved this multi-coloured annual, capable of creating a riot of colours so typical of the Namaqualand landscape.

Ostrich Farming at Groote Post, South Africa - Marianne North       Source:http://www.kew.org/visit-kew-gardens/explore/attractions/marianne-north-gallery 

When Marianne North, the English Victorian biologist and botanical artist, visited South Africa in 1882 - 1883 she was invited to visit Groote Post by Hildagonda and on 7 September 1882 she traveled by train to Malmesbury at the end of the line and from there to Groote Post in a covered country cart. 

She described her journey as follows, "We only passed two isolated farms all the twenty miles' drive to Groote Post, a most comfortable old place....." and "Miss D. had  meant me to come a week later, as eight ladies were already staying on a visit, but they all said they did not mind it, and gave me their best room. She was a regular Queen Bess or Boadicca for ruling men, and had no small work to do on the farm. Every morning she gave out over 100 rations of bread, meat, spirit, etc. Every morning a sheep was killed, and every week a bullock."

     Old Dutch Vase and South African Flowers, Groote Post - Marianne North    Source:http://www.kew.org/visit-kew-gardens/explore/attractions/marianne-north-gallery 

Marianne made a painting of Groote Post as well as a painting of a vase of indigenous flowers in Groote Post that includes Hildagonda’s favourite Nemesias.

              Flowers of Tulbagh, South Africa - Marianne North   Source:http://www.kew.org/visit-kew-gardens/explore/attractions/marianne-north-gallery    

Marianne North was noted for her plant and landscape paintings, extensive foreign travels, writings, plant discoveries and the creation of her gallery at Kew Gardens, London. When I visited the Marianne North Gallery in Kew Gardens it felt great to see, not only our indigenous flowers, but also our vernacular buildings among her 833 paintings.

                                                    Marianne North at her easel                                       Source: A Vision of  Eden the Life and work of Marianne North in collaboration with the Royal Botanic Gardens, Kew - 1980

We should be grateful that Hildagonda had the foresight to record a very important history of our culinary and cultural landscape. It also seems that little has changed in the concerns expressed by people in the beginning of the 20^thcentury Cape to the current day.

Hildagonda reflects in ‘Hilda’s diary of a Cape housekeeper’ on page 21 as follows. “Life in those days, in the seventies, was most enjoyable, but the rush of life now seems to have swept much of the old world hospitality away, people seem too busy now, but there is no doubt that, given a moderate income, the conditions of life at the Cape can be made most enjoyable. The climate lends itself to outdoor excursions, walks and picnics. Gardening is a most enjoyable occupation.”

Hilda kept the traditions of the kitchens of the great houses of the Cape alive with her books and I for one cannot wait to introduce some of the recipes to the kitchen at Towerwater.

Sources:  
Quadrilles and Konfyt - M Kuttel, published in 1954 by Maskew Miller Limited, Cape Town
Hilda's Diary of a Cape Housekeeper - Hildagonda J. Duckitt, published 1902 by Chapman and Hall Ltd, Great Britain
A Vision of Eden, the Life and work of Marianne North - in collaboration with the Royal Botanic Gardens, Kew, published in 1980 by  Webb and Bouwer Limited, Great Britain
Marianne North online gallery - http://www.kew.org/visit-kew-gardens/explore/attractions/marianne-north-gallery 

The promise of vegetable beds

Autumn seems to be a kind season for my herb and vegetable gardens as all the seeds that I have sown have come up. My arrival at Towerwater is not complete without a walk in the herb and vegetable gardens.

Cabbage seedlings

The rows and rows of disciplined vegetables in their beds leaves my ordered mind content. It allows me to tolerate the wild abundance of the herb garden, where the rocket and lettuce is coming up all over the place like little green rebels.

Garlic plants

The tomatoes that are randomly coming up in the vegetable garden are driving me to distraction. On the one hand I want to succumb to their promise of possible out of season fruit, but on the other hand I would prefer the beds to be neat and dedicated to the planned seasonal vegetables.

Red onions seedlings with random surprise tomato seedlings coming up 

Gardening amazes me in the sense that every seed that I sow is such an act of hope and belief in the future. One has to believe in a tomorrow to put so much love and dedication into your garden.

Cinnamon Basil flowers

Cutting out the basil flowers to extend the growing season for these versatile plants, I find myself engulfed in the fragrance and thinking sweet basil thoughts. Gardening is the best time to put one’s life in perspective. It provides the opportunity to philosophise about life and a world that can seem so out of alignment with the universe at times.

Peas

With the bees getting very upset with me for cutting-off their flowers, I decided to leave a few plants intact. I also tried and convince them to move to the pink rosemary bush that is covered in flowers and that its pollen could contribute to a healthy hive.

Purple Basil flowers

Instead, they followed me to the compost bins where hungry earthworms were eagerly waiting for the next batch of cuttings to recycle. Finally, they decided to explore the rosemary and elderflowers.

Wild Rocket

The beds of healthy seedlings promise an adventure in dishes for late autumn and winter.

Brinjals

My vegetables keep me grounded, attached to the soil. I am happiest with fingers rooted in the rich brown clay, allowing my mind to sprout thoughts. Thoughts that will blossom into creative pollen that wafts off into the wide blue sky. 

In the garden there is good and evil

My camera allows me to look at the garden more intently. This way I am always reminded of all the creatures that make up the ecosystem that is our garden. And there is always a balance of good and bad. As in the Garden of Eden, there could not be the fruit without the snake.

A ladybird eating aphids, cleaning the rosebud systematically

Photographing the roses I struggled to get a bloom without a bee in the picture. They were fervently gathering pollen. I could imagine them lying on their backs making pollen angels. Seeing the bees gives me hope for another season. I am concerned for their well-being. One garden alone is not going to ensure their survival, but everyone’s gardens can. We need wider action to actively protect them in the interests of our vegetables, fruit and flowers.

With the good bees, there is also unfortunately the ‘evil’ of aphids and rose beetles. Aphids are among the most destructive insect pests in the garden. Feeding on the sap of young rose-buds and leaves, they affect the whole rose display negatively. We tend to spray a solution of dish-washing soap and water to try and reduce their numbers and not affect the ladybirds and birds feeding on them.

Damage caused by aphids is evident in decreased growth rates, mottled leaves, yellowing, stunted growth, curled leaves, browning, wilting, low yields and death. The removal of sap creates a lack of vigour in the plant, and aphid saliva is toxic to plants. Aphids frequently transmit disease-causing organisms like plant viruses to their hosts. I have decided that aphids are an ‘evil’ menace and I am very happy to see the ladybirds feasting on them.

A rose beetle busy destroying a rose

The ladybirds are very welcome in our garden, feeding on aphids and scale insects. Seeing the little black spotted red, orange and yellow angels in the rose garden gives me hope in the fight against aphids and scale insects. The Afrikaans name for a ladybird describes it the best, ‘Lieweheersbesie’. Loosely translated back into English it is ‘sent from God’. That is so true.

Roses with rose beetle damage

One insect that must be the most ‘evil’, I can normally smell before I see it. They can destroy rose blooms in no time leaving the rose petals destroyed and shriveled. These big yellow and black beetles lately have new friends helping them in their destruction of the rose blooms in the form of smaller black and white beetles. The yellow and black beetles lay their eggs in manure and compost heaps or among plant roots. The pupae develop inside large, egg-shaped protective clay shells.

When we harvest compost from the compost bins, we may encounter many of the large white grubs. I normally feed these to the Fiscal shrike who eagerly watches the cleaning of the compost bins from a good vantage point close-by.

On hot days we just pick the beetles off the roses by hand and kill them. Killing them is not easy because they are very tough.

The garden is filled with good and evil and nowhere is it more visible than on a hot autumn day through the lens of my camera.

Of Pips and Petals in Autumn

It is mid-autumn and the days are getting shorter. But they are not really cooling, with daytime temperatures still reaching the lower 30 degrees Celsius. The rosarium is clearly changing with the season. The plants are healthy and there will be good new growth to work with come pruning time.

Beautiful blooms abound in spite of aphids and rose beetles and a walk down the pipped pathways is as always, a delight. I had to capture the autumn blooms and luckily that I did, because Sunday another hot day, was too much for the blooms and they scorched. 

Details of a lime-washed room

The weekend was spent completing the maintenance work on a bedroom that had some plasterwork repairs. With the wardrobe, bed and linen-press huddled together in the middle of the room under protective sheeting I was transported back several years to when we first restored the room to its former glory.

Freshly Lime Washed walls drying

The bulk of the work entailed lime washing. Brushing the walls with the ochre coloured lime wash was very therapeutic. It is quite fun to make the bold brush strokes on the wall while working the lime-wash into the wall. It felt like I was standing inside a big bowl of salted caramel when we had finished.

Mixing ochre lime wash

Freshly lime-washed, the room smelled like it must have smelt some 150 years ago after it was lime washed for the first time. The room smelled clean and fresh and the textured patina of the walls were covered in shades of ochre.

Detail of the peg top table

Detail of the turned leg table

Yellowwood bedpost

All the elements in the room added to a harmonious picture of hand-crafted furniture against the backdrop of ochre coloured walls. The 18^th century hand-made yellowwood and poplar bed was a softer shade of yellow next to the yellowwood peg-top table.

Details of pottery, wood, clay, wool and lime wash

Leather, wood and lime wash

Reed, wood and lime wash

Wood, iron, brass, glass, reed and lime wash

The details of the handmade rugs, furniture, window-shutters and floor tiles blend with handmade South African pottery and a reed ceiling to create an authentic historical feel. Towerwater provides an example of how historical features can be celebrated in contemporary living. 

Drying lime washed walls

The charm of drying lime washed walls

Autumn leaves are here to stay

I arrived at Towerwater in the dark on Friday, which is another sign that winter is approaching. I stepped out of the bakkie into a vibration of chirping crickets that threatened to overpower the night sounds of the balmy autumn evening.

As I stepped into the house, I could make out the dark cricket bodies on the floor in the street light coming in through the window. As I switched on the table lamp nearest the door, the warm electric light washed over all the dead crickets lying on the floor. There they were lying on their backs with their cricket legs in the air.

I have not worked out why they would like to come and die inside the house or why they die in this way and numbers. I will have to research the lifecycle of the cricket to get to the bottom of it. I decided to vacuum up the cricket corpses before I offloaded the bakkie. That would enable me to put down my bags and relax, with the cleaning of the cricket-masses behind me.

On Saturday morning I was greeted by a freshly mowed lawn scattered with oak leaves. A few guinea fowl feathers lay among the leaves. I was reminded that the guinea fowl too are going into autumn, losing their feathers like the vineyards and trees are losing their leaves.

Everything I sowed and planted had come up. The vegetable and herb garden was full of fresh and green new life while at the same time the rest of the garden was fading into autumn. That is Towerwater, in a constant balancing act of renewal and decay.

I am so proud of the garlic plants that are already big and strong planted from our own harvest of last year. At this rate I will not have to buy garlic for planting again. I am trying to get into a cycle of harvesting and planting my own seeds. This year I have harvested tomato seeds, beans, mealies and garlic and if the rest of the seeds perform like the garlic, I will be very happy.

A harvest of brinjals and pomegranates promised a Mediterranean feast somewhere between lime-washing and cleaning-up the bedroom.